The LOC vs LCO Method: What’s Best for 4C Hair?

If you’ve ever moisturised your 4C hair in the morning… only for it to feel dry again by the end of the day — you’re not alone.

One of the biggest struggles with kinky, coily hair isn’t just adding moisture - it’s keeping it locked in. That’s where the LOC and LCO methods come in. Both are popular in the natural hair community, both promise better moisture retention… but they don’t work the same for everyone.

So which one is actually best for 4C hair - LOC or LCO?

In this guide, we’re breaking down the real difference, how each method works, and how to choose the one that keeps your coils soft, hydrated and thriving.

But before anything, let’s break down what each of these letters stand for:

  • C = Cream (a thicker butter or moisturizer)

  • L = Liquid (usually water or leave-in conditioner)

  • O = Oil (like jojoba, olive, or castor oil)

What Is the LOC Method?

The LOC method is one of the most popular moisturising techniques used in natural hair care - especially for 4C, coily, and kinky hair types that are prone to dryness.

LOC stands for:

  • L - Liquid

  • O - Oil

  • C - Cream

The method is all about layering products in this specific order to maximise moisture retention. Instead of applying products randomly, each step plays a role in hydrating the hair and sealing that moisture in.

Step 1: Liquid (Hydration First)

The first step focuses on adding moisture to the hair.

This can be:

  • Water (the best source of hydration)

  • A water-based leave-in conditioner

  • A hydrating spray or mist

Because 4C hair tends to be naturally dry, starting with liquid helps soften the strands and makes them more receptive to the products that follow.

Key point:
If you skip this step, you’re sealing dryness into your hair - not moisture.

Step 2: Oil (Seal the Moisture)

Next comes oil.

The purpose of oil in the LOC method isn’t to moisturise — it’s to seal in the water or leave-in you just applied.

Oils create a barrier around the hair shaft, slowing down moisture loss.

Popular oils for 4C hair include:

  • Jamaican black castor oil (thick, great for coarse hair)

  • Coconut oil (penetrating, but not for everyone)

  • Olive oil

  • Argan oil

  • Jojoba oil

Heavier oils tend to work well for high-porosity or very dry 4C hair, while lighter oils may suit low-porosity hair better.

Step 3: Cream (Lock It All In)

The final step is applying a cream or butter-based moisturiser.

This layer helps to:

  • Add extra softness

  • Reduce frizz

  • Improve manageability

  • Reinforce the moisture seal

Common product types used here:

  • Hair creams

  • Curl creams

  • Butters (like shea or mango butter)

  • Thick moisturising stylers

Think of this step as the final “lock” that keeps hydration from escaping too quickly.

Who Benefits Most From the LOC Method?

The LOC method tends to work best for:

  • High-porosity 4C hair

  • Hair that absorbs moisture quickly but loses it fast

  • Very dry or damaged hair

  • Colour-treated natural hair

If your hair drinks up water but feels dry soon after, LOC may help you hold onto that moisture longer.

Great for high-porosity hair, because it struggles to retain moisture. Oil locks in hydration before the cream adds extra softness.

What Is the LCO Method?

The LCO method is another popular moisturising technique used in natural hair care

LCO stands for:

  • L - Liquid

  • C - Cream

  • O - Oil

Just like the LOC method, the goal is to layer products in a way that helps your hair absorb moisture and hold onto it for as long as possible. The key difference is the order in which the products are applied - and that change can significantly affect how your hair feels and responds.

Who Benefits Most From the LCO Method?

The LCO method tends to work best for:

  • Low-porosity 4C hair

  • Hair that struggles to absorb products

  • Fine or easily weighed-down strands

  • Hair that feels greasy with LOC

  • Looser type 4 textures (4A/4B as well)

If your hair often feels coated instead of moisturised, switching the order to LCO may make a noticeable difference.

Which One Should You Use?

  • Try LOC if your hair dries out quickly.

  • Try LCO if your hair is easily weighed down or feels coated.

For this it’s important that you know your hair porosity. If you’re not sure, click below to learn a simple test to help give you an idea.

Tips for Either Method

  • Always start on damp or freshly washed hair (for example after shampooing and conditioning).

  • Runnier leave-in conditioners and oils work better for low-porosity hair works, while creaminess/thicker leave-ins and oils are more suitable for high porosity hair.

  • Don’t overdo it - too many products can cause buildup.

Final Thoughts

It’s not about following a trend—it’s about what works for your unique texture. Try both and see what your hair loves most.

Kinky Chi

Hey, I’m Chi and after a lifelong “battle” with my very kinky and coily hair, I realized that life is too short for me to spend so much time stressing over it. I dedicated time to learn more about my hair and in my journey I discovered a lot of information that not only made my life easier, but completely transformed my relationship with my hair for the better.

And then I thought “Why not share this world?” and here we are! Buckle up and I hope you enjoy the ride.

Next
Next

Summer Hair Care: Do's and Don'ts for 4C, Coily, Kinky, and Curly Hair