The Ultimate Wash Day Routine for 4C, Kinky, Coily & Curly Hair

Wash day for 4C, kinky, coily and curly hair can sometimes feel like a full day of work. And who wants that? We’re talking about hours for detangling knots, deep conditioning and styling…phew! It can be a lot! But what if I told you that it doesn’t have to be that way. There are steps that you can follow to help make your wash day as seamless as it gets.

Whether you’re just starting your natural hair journey or if you’ve been a natural for a hot minute, let’s break down the essential wash day steps - with pro tips - and help you turn wash day into a vibe, not a chore.

Step 1: Section Your Hair First

Divide and conquer!

Before you even think about applying any product to your hair, start by sectioning it. This makes every part of wash day much easier - from applying treatments to detangling and styling.

Why sectioning is key:

• Helps ensure even product distribution

• Makes detangling more manageable

• Prevents hair from re-tangling during the process

How to do it:

• Use sectioning clips or gentle scrunchies

• Divide into 4–6 sections, depending on your hair density and length

• Twist or braid each section loosely to keep it out of the way

✨ Pro tip: Keep your spray bottle nearby to re-wet sections if they start to dry out!

A simple explanation from @Jennjackson’s of how she usually part her own hair. She uses a rat tail comb, but parting for wash day doesn’t have to be precise, so your hands can also get the job done.

Step 2: Pre-Poo Like a Pro

Prep your curls before the cleanse

What is pre-pooing? It’s applying a treatment (usually an oil or conditioner) to your hair before you shampoo. Sounds extra, right? But hear me out - this step is key for 4C and kinky textures prone to dryness and breakage.

Why it matters:

• Adds moisture before cleansing

• Minimizes breakage during detangling

• Helps protect hair from harsh shampoos

What to use:

• Coconut oil for penetrating moisture

• Aloe vera gel for soothing the scalp

• A cheap, slippery conditioner for easy detangling

Pro tip:

Apply your pre-poo in sections and finger-detangle as you go. Cover your hair with a plastic cap and let it sit for 20–30 minutes. You can even do this overnight if you're feeling fancy.

Step 3: Shampoo Smart

Clean your scalp, not your strands

4C and coily hair thrives when the scalp is clean and the hair is left moisturized. But using the wrong shampoo - or too much of it - can leave your hair feeling like straw.

What you should look for:

• Sulfate-free shampoos that cleanse gently for your weekly washes

• Moisturizing formulas with ingredients like honey, aloe vera, or black soap

• Clarifying shampoos (once a month) for product buildup

How to shampoo:

• Work in sections (good thing you already did that!)

• Focus the shampoo on your scalp mainly

• Let the suds run down your strands - don’t scrub them

Pro tip:

Massage your scalp with your fingertips (or a scalp brush) for better circulation and more effective cleansing.

Step 4: Condition & Detangle

Choose your treatment based on your hair’s needs

This is the step where you restore moisture, strengthen the strands and gently detangle your curls. Whether you opt for a regular rinse-out conditioner or a deep conditioning treatment, it all depends on your hair's condition.

You’ve got two main options:

1. Rinse-Out Conditioner

• Great for adding quick moisture and slip for easy detangling

• Ideal for weekly wash days when your hair isn’t super dry or damaged

• Only needs to stay in for 3–5 minutes

2. Deep Conditioner or Hair Mask

• Ideal when your hair needs extra moisture, repair, or protein

• Penetrates more deeply into the hair shaft

• Leave in for 20–30 minutes, with or without heat

Detangling tips:

• Always detangle on wet, conditioned hair

• Use your fingers or a wide-tooth comb

• Start at the ends and work your way up

• Detangle in sections to avoid stress and breakage

💡 Should you do both (rinse-out conditioner and deep conditioner)? No need - pick one based on what your hair needs that day. If your deep conditioner has great slip that will be great for detangling. If your hair is particularly tangled, using a rinse-out conditioner first can help prep it for a deep treatment. If, however, your hair is feeling to soft and weak, it may need a protein treatment instead.

Step 5: Rinse Thoroughly

Goodbye residue, hello softness!

Rinsing out your conditioner properly is key to making sure your hair is ready to absorb leave-ins and stylers. Any leftover product can lead to buildup or weak and dull strands.

How to rinse:

• Use lukewarm water for moisture retention

• Rinse each section thoroughly to remove all product

• Gently squeeze out excess water - no harsh towel rubbing (opt for a microfiber towel or a t-shit - we all have an old one hanging around with that purpose)!

Step 6: Lock In That Moisture

Your hair deserves hydration that lasts

After rinsing, your hair is at its most vulnerable - but also most receptive to moisture. It’s time to seal it in!

Layer your products:

• L (Liquid): Start with water or a leave-in conditioner

• O (Oil): Seal in moisture with a lightweight oil (jojoba, almond, grapeseed)

• C (Cream): Finish with a curl cream, butter, or styling product

The choice of the specific liquid, oil and cream should be intimately connected to your hair porosity. Low hair porosity tends to prefer lighter Leave-ins, oils and creams, while high porosity hair loves heavier products. Be wise in your choice.

The LOC vs. LCO method:

Experiment to see which layering order works best for your hair. Thicker, kinkier textures often benefit from the LOC method, while finer curls may prefer LCO.

Pro tip: Apply products in sections to ensure every strand gets love!

Step 7: Style with Care

Stretch, twist, define, or fluff - your hair, your choice!

Now that your hair is prepped and moisturized, it’s time to style it to slay. Whether you’re rocking a twist-out, braid-out, Bantu knots or wash-n-go, always prioritize low manipulation and protective styling.

Styling options:

• Twist-outs for juicy definition

• Bantu knots for springy curls

• Flat twists for protective and professional looks

• Wash-n-go’s (with a gel that defines without flaking)

Pro tip:

Use a hooded dryer or diffuser if you need to speed things up. Letting your hair air dry? Don’t touch it while it dries—frizz will come for you!

Bonus Tips to Make Wash Day Easier

• Prep the night before: section your hair and pre-poo so you're ready to start in the morning.

• Stay entertained during the process (listen to a podcast or music): turn wash day into “me time” instead of a chore.

• Use clips and tools: sectioning clips, wide-tooth combs and spray bottles are lifesavers.

• Stick to a routine: once you find your groove, wash day will feel less like a marathon.

• Don’t skip trims: Healthy ends = easier detangling and longer-lasting styles.

Final Thoughts: Make Wash Day a Ritual, Not a Hassle

You don’t have to dread wash day. With the right steps, products, and a little patience, you’ll see better moisture retention, less breakage, and curls that are consistently thriving.

First, it’s important that you understand your hair porosity, so that you can customize your hair routine around that

Your hair deserves the best, and now you’ve got the blueprint.

So pour yourself a tea (or wine - no judgment), play favorite playlist, and start loving your wash day again!